all 143 comments

[–]platypodus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm looking for cheap, energy saving led or LCD panels, but I don't even know where I'd source electronics like that. Where do you guys source your DIY materials?

[–]Cottonita 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I used Cerakote Headlight Restorer on my car headlights. Everything looked nice and clean as it should after the third and final step. But when I checked back in a few hours, the lights looked foggier than when I started. What happened, and how can I fix it? I followed the instructions to the letter.

[–]Guygan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Contact the manufacturer.

[–]SaltyPitman 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Hey y'all, what type of shower arm is this? I'm trying to find a replacement shower head that will fit this and I'm not quite sure how to look for one because I'm not quite sure what to call this.



[–]Astramancer_pro commenter 1 point2 points  (1 child)

It is, unimaginatively, called a "ball end" shower arm.


They're incredibly outdated (at least in the US) and you should be able to unscrew it from the fitting inside the wall and replace it with a standard arm if you want. You can also get adapters that let you use a standard shower head with a ball end arm.

[–]SaltyPitman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the help!!! I purchased an adapter and a replacement shower head last night! Our showers will be so much better now!

[–]Freds_Premium 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone have tips on cleaning pvc pipes? Formufit is out of budget for how much tube and fittings I need for my project. Is it just acetone and green scrub pads? Or is there a smarter way to do it? I won't be painting them, just getting the lettering off. I'll be doing this in my garage with the small door open, do I need a mask or something?

[–]HOSideVe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Renting an apartment, the air conditioner filters are really flimsy and I don't think they catch dust,

Can I upgrade them?


[–]minimomfloors 0 points1 point  (1 child)

What' the best way to repair this gouge in my vinyl floor? I don't have any spare pieces of flooring and it's small enough I'm not sure it's quite worth ripping up two tiles. Should I just use a wax pencil or two to try to match the color and then fill it with clear glue?

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a very small gouge. Just colouring it grey or black will hide 80% of it from view. If you take the time to carefully colour-match the shades of grey with the surrounding texture, it'll be invisible.

[–]lemonade4321 0 points1 point  (1 child)


Piece of wood that connects underneath two drawers in my kitchen has fallen off. It has the rollers on that attach to the drawers. The other rollers are attached to the outer walls and are intact. How hard would it be to fix this myself and what would I need?

[–]gardenbrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Easy to fix. Add glue to the back, jam it into place, and nail or screw it to the rear. If you screw it (I would), drill a pilot hole first.

[–]BugNuggetYT 0 points1 point  (2 children)

How can I melt two ends of plastic together safely? I want to take a water gallon and turn it into a straw, not really because it's practical but rather because it intrigues me and I don't know why.

[–]Guygan 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Just try it and find out. Water bottles are basically free.

[–]BugNuggetYT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

okay but i want to melt it a bit to join two ends together and i don't know what would be the best way to do so

[–]ExtrapolatedData 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I’m getting some 3/4” thick melamine-coated particleboard to make a Lego display shelf. I saw one website that recommended not putting the brackets more than 28” apart, but it didn’t specify weight capacity. I’d like to put brackets into every other stud, which would be 32” between each bracket. Would this be acceptable for storing Legos, or should I put a bracket at every stud (16”)?

[–]chopsuwepro commenter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need The Sagulator https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/

[–]Freds_Premium 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1-1/4 in. Ratcheting PVC Cutter by Husky any good for 1/2" nom pvc cutting? I'm building something that will take 64 cuts.

[–]AllTooHuman65 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I'm a complete ignoramus regarding building things.

A while ago I bought an inexpensive metal loft bed; only recently I got a mattress for it. It's great...except it wobbles SO MUCH.

I've tried floor stabilizing with bed feet with no luck. Most advice I read talks about bracing it, or using kickers. I have no idea what those are, and I don't understand what to look for and how to install them. I rent and I don't own very many tools, so Idk how I would make holes in the wall if that's called for.

[–]caddis789 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First you want to figure out what the wobble is from. Is it from an uneven floor? Does one leg lose contact with the floor when you push on it? If so then a shim under that leg should fix the problem. If the legs are all firmly on the ground, but the structure itself is swaying, check to make sure that all the connections are tight. Go back and give all the bolts/screws another turn. Attaching it to the wall, or adding braces would be the next thing. Bracing would be adding a diagonal piece between the vertical leg and the horizontal bed rail. Without some pictures, it's hard to say anything more specific.

[–]1belle 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Hello! We bought an older house that has wood framed windows. In the kitchen there is a line of 3 windows, and the bottom of the window frame (the part that is connected to the glass) is rotten.

Is this something that we can fix? Or do all the windows need to be completely replaced? If so, any advice on what to search or the name of the piece would be greatly appreciated! :)

[–]caddis789 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The wood frame around the actual glass pane is made up of two vertical stiles and two horizontal rails. If those are rotting, chances are you need to replace the whole window. You can make a new frame (or get one made), but it would probably be just as much as replacing the whole thing, and it can be hard to match the profiles of the old one. If you already have the equipment/tools that changes that thought.

Replacing a window is doable, if you're of the mind to do it. There are lots of videos on Youtube that go through it. Look at a few and see if that's in your comfort zone. Most of the tools needed could be rented, if need be.

[–]Expendable_Red_Shirt 0 points1 point  (2 children)

My doorknob fell off in the middle of the night. I can't seem to figure out how to get to the screw holes in the front doorknob.

Any help would be appreciated.

[–]gardenbrain 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Is there a tiny hole for a set screw under the handle? On the stem?

[–]Expendable_Red_Shirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not that I can see.

Also there are similar doorknobs on other doors and you can see the screws. I don’t think it’s supposed to rotate.

[–]philsphan26 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Looking to re-paint my steel front door . The paint on there is starting to flake/peel. Seems to be a semigloss .

What is the best way to re-paint. Should I just sand it down, clean it and repaint ? What type of paint is best . It’s a door that one side faces outside and other side faces inside. Thanks

[–]caddis789 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll definitely need to strip the peeling paint. You should use a metal bonding primer, then a good paint. I would go and talk to an actual paint store, not the paint desk at a home center.

[–]beenplaces 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Hi guys,

0 experience with woodworking.

I bough this wooden handbrake handle that requires some love, and I was wondering what should I use after sanding it down?

The bottom of it looks beautiful, but the top worn out.

What should I use to make it look all deep brown like bottom of it and to make sure it will be well preserved?

Please see image attached.


Thanks in advance :)

[–]chopsuwepro commenter 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Spar urethane from a boat shop, it holds up the best to UV light damage. Second best is normal oil based polyurethane. Water based polyurethane doesn't hold up well to skin oils.

[–]beenplaces 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Should I use some sort of stain before?

[–]chopsuwepro commenter 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Only if you want it darker or to change the colour. Once you've got it sanded, wipe a small patch with a damp rag. That's how it'll look without stain.

[–]beenplaces 0 points1 point  (0 children)


So it seems like it was previously stained? Considering the difference.

If Ibwas to use polytherane, should I get it done with brush or spray?

[–]BadChineseAccent 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I’m wanting to take panels from wooden wine crates and cover a wall with them. The wall is about 9’x6’.

The wine panels are anywhere from about 4x16” to 8x12” to 13x16”. So it’s gonna take quite a few panels. The panels weigh probably anywhere from less than a pound to maybe 2-3lbs for the largest ones.

I don’t want to ruin the drywall underneath, so I don’t want to use liquid nails or construction adhesive and just slap the panels on the wall.

My thought is to screw some sheets of 1/4” plywood or 1/8” hardboard to the studs and then glue the wine crate panels on top of the sheets.

Is this the best idea or does anyone have better ideas? If I used 1/8” sheet of 2x4’ hardboard, will it need more than a screw into each corner, screwed into studs? Or would let’s say 10-20lbs of wine crate panels require a lot more screws per sheet?

Thanks in advance!

[–]Astramancer_pro commenter 0 points1 point  (1 child)

It depends on the screw, of course, but generally speaking a screw into a stud can hold around 80 - 100 pounds. That's static load so putting stuff on it will spike the effective weight the screw is holding and any distance from the wall generates leverage (imagine holding a stick out. Imagine adding a weight to the stick. Would it be easier to hold the stick out straight if that weight was next to your hand or at the end?)

So, theoretically, a screw in each corner would be fine. Personally I'd also put a screw in each stud along the top and bottom, too. Not like screws are expensive.

[–]BadChineseAccent 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I talked to a friend about this and thinks I should go with 5mm plywood instead of hardboard, just for added strength, so I think I’m going to do that.

The reason I was asking about the number of the screws is because I’d ideally like to be able to place the wine panels on top of the screws using command strips or Velcro because I’d like for them to remain accessible if we want to remove the plywood sheets in the future. So fewer screws means less that need to to be hidden.

Putting a screw in each corner should be relatively easy to hide. Not like putting a screw every 6” into the plywood. That would be a pain.

[–]WA-ahah 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I am thinking of building a small shed to dedicate as changing room, to change out of dirty clothes after done yard work. But it would also double as bathroom for guests: we already have an office shed where we can put a pull out bed couch.

We have electricity in the office shed and an outdoor faucet.

My idea is: - a prefab shed - utility sink - simple shower kit - portable flushable toilet - camping water heater (propane or eletrical) like CampLux Water Heater - bench and hooks for changing area

For draining the shower and the sink I was thinking just draining in the ground with maybe a catch basin and a drain pipe. Like an outdoor shower, usually they just drain in the ground.

Is that feasible? Do you have any suggestions? We don't have much experience for big DIY projects, so any shortcut is useful.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The shower should be outside. A shower inside a garden shed is basically just a big box of mold.

[–]ike99jr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found a big semi truck mud flap. Pretty heavy with a steel plate attached to the bottom. Flexible but thick rubber. Any ideas??

[–]Neat-Trick-2378 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Has anyone ever tried repairing an old yard shed? Not even sure where to start looking fur damage. It still stands and holds water out but lots of lose nails and cracked wood

[–]Evil0city 0 points1 point  (1 child)

How do I quickly get rid of moisture in windows? All my windows in the second floor has moisture trapped in between the double-pane glass.

We're looking to sell our house soon. I'm looking for ways to quickly get rid of it if we get pictures done soon and if it ever comes back when our house is in the market.

[–]caddis789 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The seals on the insulated glass have failed. AFAIK, there isn't anything you can do except replace them.

[–]SKCwillie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a wiring/electrical question I was hoping to get some help with. I recently put in 2 Hunter ceiling fans. One room used to have a fan and the other just a light.

Now, if the hallway light is on and I turn on either of the room's fan/light switch, the hallway light will flicker for 3-4 seconds before settling down and being fine. Should I be concerned? It seems like they way you're supposed to use these fans is to only use the provided remote to turn on/off the light but I was hoping to still be able to use the light switch.

edit: the fan fixtures are using the bulbs that came with the fan

[–]AliceinFurs8 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I’m not sure if this is the right place to ask this but… I’m trying to oxidise a gold plated pendant, which i thought was low quality plating, but i’ve tried everything i could find on the internet to turn it black, and nothing has worked so far. Any suggestions?

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (1 child)

r/jewelrymaking will be of more help.

[–]AliceinFurs8 0 points1 point  (0 children)

alright thank you :)

[–]waiting4omscs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just had some sliding doors installed. It's 4 doors on two rails. The installer did a good job for the most part, two meet in the middle pretty level. The two that meet the walls aren't flush. It's mostly hidden by some trim that he added, but my issue is that it's not a good seal, so sound is making it's way in. Could I use weather stripping to close the gaps? The problem I'm having is that the gap is like 1/8" at the bottom of the doors and about 1/2" at the top. Is there a way to trim weather stripping thickness?

[–]xopar 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Hey! I was looking to replace the grate over the air returns in one of the rooms in my house. The return is simply between two studs (apparently normal). When I took off the old grate, I noticed that there is a metal rim around the edge of the drywall and didn't think much about it. The new grate needed screws in slightly different locations so I filled in the old holes, marked the spots for the new screws and began drilling pilot holes. The drill comes to a stop (it spins, just doesnt go any further into the wall) at about the thickness of the drywall so I am assuming that I am hitting this metal bit. I stuck my hand up and down and it goes about 2 inches up and down, I can't tell on the sides though because thats where the studs are. I am not sure how to proceed further. Can I just drill into this?

[–]gardenbrain 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I have the same problem and I’m planning on solving it with magnets.

[–]xopar 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Ah so I ended up solving it! I was able to be 100% sure I that I was just punching through a metal rectangle meant to layout the grill location when the walls were being put up. I knew that there was no pipes or electrical going through the studs right there. So I ended up just taking a good old hammer and nail and punching through the metal that way. Then I was able to screw the grill on!

[–]gardenbrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, the hit it with a hammer solution. A classic.

[–]schmennings 0 points1 point  (7 children)

How the hell do you screw sole plates into concrete floors? I'm trying to frame a small closet in my basement and I have this Ryobi Hammer Drill that isnt doing much.

I broke one concrete drill bit and I melted the tip off another (which came with my tapcon screws).

I also tried using a ramset with yellow bullets but this concrete floor is hard is diamond.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (6 children)

It's a hammer drill, but it's not a real hammer drill.

You need a rotary hammer, that uses either SDS plus or SDS max bits.

That said, a ramset with the correct powder charge really should work....

[–]schmennings 0 points1 point  (5 children)

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Hmm. You might as well try stepping up to a red or purple charge. Yellow is only 4/6 strength. If you have very hard concrete, you might need the extra punch.

[–]schmennings 1 point2 points  (3 children)

just rented the Hilti DX2 (upgrade to .27 caliber) and got some red charges. No dice. In fact, some of my nails bent back towards the wood instead of piecing the concrete. Guess I'll try a rotary tool next.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Fucking hell, are you Sure there isn't a piece of rebar or something there?

[–]schmennings 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I am not sure but wouldn't rebar be pretty deep? This is the house slab I'm talking about which should be 4-6" deep right and the rebar would be in the vertical center of that right? These nails are hardly going in, in some cases they just cracked the surface (like 3 mm) of concrete.

Maybe it matters but this house was built in the 60s and everything is pretty reinforced (cant find studs in the walls because the drywall is like 1inch thick and might have plaster on top).

[–]1998f1504x4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

just glue your bottom plates down

[–]brock_leepro commenter 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Strange situation with shower. This has happened for years. Neither the shower head or the valve are new, both at least 6 years old, likely more. When someone takes a shower, and turns off the water, the shower head drips for 10-20 seconds. Nothing unusual there. THEN, about 20 minutes later, ONE TIME, it will have a surge of dripping, as if it was just shut off. It does not drip otherwise, either before or after, and after it does this, it does not drip nor leak at all, but repeats this once someone takes a shower the next day, for instance. Aside from the other shower head in the house which is about the same height, this is the highest water fixture in the house. Any ideas?

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My friend has the exact same thing. It's from the shower not having a vent in its head. It's TOO airtight, so no air can get in to relieve the vacuum that forms as water drips out after the tap is shut off, until a little while later, after what I assume is evaporation leading to one of the nozzles finally draining and breaking the vacuum.

[–]InterestTurbulent447 0 points1 point  (2 children)

How to buy materials?

I'm what most people consider to be a kid (around 19) and I genuinely am so confused on where to buy things for DIY as I enjoy making blueprints for ideas. In this specific circumstance I am trying to find mostly transparent tape sheets (vlt 90%) to make red tinted glasses but

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 1 point2 points  (1 child)

<Product> Supply <Your Municipality>


Buy <Product> <Your Municipality>

That's the key. That's the search query you gotta use on Google to find materials and hardware.

Looking for plastic sheets, and you live in Houston?

"Plastic Supply Houston"

"Landscape Supply Houston"

"Door Handle Hardware Supply Houston"


Buy Acrylic Houston

Buy Rope Houston


[–]Bupod 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I need to purchase a replacement oval mirror for a vanity, 0.125" thick, 16" x 26", where would I be able to find this? If at all possible, an acrylic mirror would be preferred, but glass can work as well although I need it to be 1/8" thick, with some variation, but 3/16" would be a bit too much and I can't work with it.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (1 child)

You'll have to commission one to be cut for you at a glass cutting company, or just try your luck on the classifieds.

[–]Bupod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feared that might be the case. Thank you, though.

[–]zensational 0 points1 point  (2 children)

What should I use to cut this? I have a Skil Saw with a tile blade, router I can get a bit for etc.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Skil saw with the tile blade and a guide.

Oscillating multitool with a diamond blade for the corners and where the Skil saw can't reach.

[–]zensational 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I thought, thanks!

[–]Btadowjones 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I broke the water valve shutoff on my kitchen sink and bought a replacement valve but my old one is welded on. Help! How do I replace it?

[–]Astramancer_pro commenter 1 point2 points  (1 child)

You'd need to post a picture or more details to be sure, but odds are it's not welded on, it's "sweated" on. Basically, you put the pipe and fitting together and then fill the gaps with lead (or if it's relatively recent and depending on the application, lead-free) solder. If it's a copper pipe coming out of the wall and you're seeing bumpy melted metal at the joint, it's probably a soldered joint.

The solder melts at a relatively low temperature and once it starts melting you can just pull it off.

Of course, this means that your replacement valve will likely need to be sweated on or additional fittings installed because there's not going to be any threads to screw it onto (again, assuming it's been soldered on).

While it is possible to to DIY and learn from watching videos, sweating solder does involve heat usually in the form of a butane or propane torch and it's really easy for that heat to go where you don't want it to go and if you don't fully seal the joint you're going to get leaks and have to do it again. Depending on your comfort level, it may be time to call a professional.

[–]Btadowjones 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate it

[–]MarblesAreDelicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Edit: never mind. I found photos of the inside of the housing and they clearly show a standard E26 socket built-in.

I am looking to purchase 4” recessed lighting cans that are compatible with BR30 bulbs. Perhaps I’m not understanding correctly, but the one model (Halo H995ICAT) sold by my local HD makes no mention of being compatible. Is there another piece I can buy to make it work or should I be looking at another product?

From the manual:

“The H995ICAT is a dedicated LED small aperture IC Air-TiteTM housing for use with Halo RA4, RL4, LT4, ML4 series LED modules and may be used with SLD4 series with the SLD spring kit. It is designed for use in insulated ceilings where it will be in direct contact with insulation*. It is an Air-TiteTM housing designed to restrict air flow between conditioned spaces and unconditioned areas. The LED connection is non-screw base to preserve the high efficacy rating of the luminaire.”

[–]FlyingGiraffe67 0 points1 point  (3 children)

I have a few old paper posters and I'd like to frame them. How do I get started with that? Getting prebuilt one's from Amazon is a little expensive.

[–]CraftiestQuack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think Michaels is having a buy one get two free frame sale right now? Could be more economical depending on how many you need.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ikea has cheap frames, but they're likely the same price as what's on Amazon.

[–]Guygan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Custom frames are FAR more expensive that premade ones from Amazon.

[–]DVP21 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I have recently ordered a neon sign that I would like to mount on the wall, but unfortunately, I'm not allowed to drill any holes. The sign is expected to weigh no more than 5 lbs/2.3kg, and the wall has a bumpy texture. I was considering using double-sided adhesive stickers, but I'm not sure if they'll be strong enough to keep the sign securely in place. Do you have any suggestions for alternative options I might not be aware of? Have any of you had experience with mounting a similar sign with double-sided adhesive tape/stickers?

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adhesive stickers really do not like rough surfaces. I can't say I have a better option for you, but there's a good chance the adhesive won't work

[–]GlasedDonut 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I'm planning to do a simple screen enclosure to my already covered patio. One corner is a stone veneer column (wood underneath). Should I cut a vertical slot for the framing in the column to attach it to the wood? Or should I just abut the framing to the stone and try to seal the small, irregular gaps? Not sure if the latter would look tacky, but also not confident I can pull off the former!

[–]gardenbrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not an expert, but since cutting all that stone would be a nightmare, I’d try scribing the shape of the stone onto the abutting wooden upright and cutting it out with a jigsaw. Then I’d caulk where stone meets wood. Check YT for “woodworking how to scribe.” The learning curve is shallow.

[–]RibTicklerRacoon 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I'm having a retaining wall installed and the contractor is charging $20/linear foot for the drainage. The wall is 54ft long so thats about $1080 minus cost of materials that I can save if I do it my self. The space to backfill with dirt behind the wall is an average about 1.5 by 2.5 feet. Can anyone give advice on how you would set up or install the drainage in my situation?

Price breakdown is:
- $6.8k for the wall. They build the wall with cement footers and cinder block that they provide and add the veneer and stone cap that I'm providing.
- TBD for drainage at $20/linear foot
- TBD for the backfill at $500/load.

I found free dirt on offerup to save $1k on the backfill and I'm wondering if I can save another $1k on the drainage if its DIYable.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Basically it's a 4" perforated drain tube that you put inside a big filter sock, and lay at the bottom of the wall, with the holes pointing down. You then backfill the area with clear gravel and filter fabric, then your soil.

Look up an engineered rataining wall cross section diagram and you'll see how it should be.

[–]Logvin 0 points1 point  (0 children)


I have this fan: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Decorators-Collection-Windward-IV-52-in-Indoor-LED-Brushed-Nickel-Ceiling-Fan-with-Dimmable-Light-Kit-Remote-Control-and-Reversible-Motor-26663/301163154

and one of the bulbs died, so I need to replace. Problem is, I just can not get the bowl off!

It looks like they sell a replacement bowl: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Windward-IV-Ceiling-Fan-Replacement-Glass-Bowl-082392053475/205489116

and the manuals say it should twist off counter-clockwise. I simply could not get it though. I tried with a pot holder, I tried with a suction cup, I tried spinning both ways... that sucker is on there good. I even hit it around all edges with a rubber mallet (which my wife was oh so not very thrilled with).

Would love to hear any suggestions on how I can remove. The fan is attached via a long pole to a vaulted ceiling, and my ladder can not make it to the top.

[–]AutomaticControlNerd 0 points1 point  (5 children)

I'm doing some interior, temporary demolition to resolve some problems that require it. I am new to larger scale projects such as this.

I have to remove some walls, baseplate and studs, to work on the concrete beneath them. The walls are not load bearing. The walls are frames, against a concrete half-basement. (The framing of the structure rests atop the poured concrete half wall, roughly 4 feet high. Towards the interior, standard 16 in framing rests on/is anchored to, the concrete slab) I feel comfortable on that part, I've worked light construction before and feel confident about removing the anchors and either setting aside or dismantling temporarily the wood frame.

My concern is, when removing drywall, since I will be putting the wall back in place where it was removed from after the ground work is completed. Do I / is it possible to save the drywall and reinstall it? Do I trash the sheetrock, and just replace, remud and repaint? I haven't really had to concern myself with something like this before and I just don't know the "best" thing to do.

(Additional info is that I'm having an interior drainage systems installed, that will be built against the foundation wall. It's the reason I need to remove the wall that rests against the foundation, to gain access to the concrete that rests beneath it for removal, so the drainage rests below the level of the slab)

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 1 point2 points  (4 children)

Trash and replace, unfortunately.

[–]AutomaticControlNerd 0 points1 point  (3 children)

That's fine, I just needed to know if I should get a contractor size take away bag. It's rough, but I'll bite the bullet amd indulge my inner beast.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Oh, I dont see that asked anywhere.

By "Take-away bag", I assume you mean a cubic-yard bag that gets picked up by a disposal company? Yeah I've used them before. They're quite costly for how small they are. Take a look around your home, an see if you would benefit from having an actual dumpster for a few days. It might be a great opportunity to purge and de-clutter. Small dumpsters are only a bit more than those cubic yard bags.

[–]AutomaticControlNerd 0 points1 point  (1 child)

That might be worth while. I also could just pack it up and take it to the dump myself, I know the cost is reasonable. I was talking about a cubic yard bag. I guess I hadn't asked about it, was just thinking I'd have to do that if I couldn't save it.

I'm Thankful this project is small. Over all, it's just 15 of wall, one section is a 4x8ft half wall. When I break open the other wall section, I'm hoping to see that it's also two 4ft sections stacked ontop of eachother. Knowing my luck, it will be a full 8ft stud section that I'll have to disassemble. At least I know that I don't need to be shy with the demo.

I'll look into getting a small dumpster. I have six weeks before the contractors show up for their part of the work, so I'm not in crunch time just yet.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drywall makes a lot of mess, so take that into consideration when it comes to protecting the inside of your car/truck, if you go that way.

Also, wear respiratory protection.

[–]saintpillow 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Need Advice on a Home Lighting (Rental) Situation

Long story, but we have found ourselves living in a ... poorly thought-out apartment building with wildly inadequate lighting (literally no overhead lighting in the living room, despite high ceilings - baffling.)

Floor lamps are out of the question as we have a hyperactive puppy and the ceilings are too high for ceiling lamps to be effective.

After a brief attempt with small, tappable/remote-operated overhead lights (powered by C batteries and the mounts would not stick), I'm hoping someone has a creative solution given the following parameters:

  • No pre-installed location for an overhead light fixture (spent an hour combing the ceiling with a stud finder/current detector as this was my first thought)
  • Minimal damage that can't be repaired with paint/spackle
  • Ideally could be turned on/off via remote or app
  • Preferably LED (do not care about different color lights, just need/want to better illuminate the room
  • Dimming is a plus but is not required (already found an excellent wallmount, rechargeable reading light but it does not quite illuminate the whole room and the battery doesn't last long at maximum brightness.)

I'm at my wit's end trying to solve this problem and am hoping someone here has a novel suggestion.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 2 points3 points  (2 children)

The height of a ceiling has little to no effect on lights in the space. Light doesn't get weaker over greater distances, it just spreads out more. But in an enclosed space, that greater spread doesn't change anything.

5000 lumens in a room with 8' ceilings is still 5000 lumens in a room with 12' ceilings. The only loss of light comes from the light that is absorbed by the 4'-tall strip of walls running around the room in excess of the original 8' height -- but this is a very small amount of loss.

If you can't have lights on the floor, and you dont want lights on the ceiling, then the only remaining option is lights on the walls.

[–]saintpillow -1 points0 points  (1 child)

I think you missed the point - why would an apartment with high ceilings not have existing overhead lighting?

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 3 points4 points  (0 children)

People make all sorts of weird design decisions. Most of them are motivated by money and nothing else. Apartments tend to have concrete ceilings. To get lighting up there, the builders need to either plan for it from the start, and do concrete drilling or cast-in-place boxes, or they need to install a drop ceiling.

In any case, like I said, if you can't have lights on the floor, and you don't want / can't have them on the ceiling, the only remaining option is lights on the walls.

[–]MisterFistYourSister 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi all. I'm wondering if anyone can offer suggestions on mounting a tv above a fireplace. There are no studs in the area above the fireplace, and it is a rental so causing damage (e.g. studless mounts and their dozens of nails) to the unit is a concern. The mantle is too shallow for a conventional base, maybe about 6" deep. I'm mounting a 43" tv. Are there maybe any shallow stands, or alternative methods of mounting a tv I'm not thinking of? Thanks in advance

[–]J4nG 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Following up on this project, thanks /u/--Ty-- for the advice.

I've got the ground dug, edging in place, and just got the decomposed granite delivered.

Looking at various sources on the internet, looks like most recommend laying a layer of granite, wetting it, then waiting 8 hours before compacting. Is that waiting period strictly necessary? What does it accomplish? Since I have four ish layers to do, if I have to wait after laying each one I'm going to end up paying for a week-long rental for a plate compactor (~$400) or having to buy a cheap one online. Would prefer to get this done in a day or two if I can to save a few bucks.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 1 point2 points  (2 children)

That waiting period is utter nonsense, and actively counter-productive. Like the mere suggestion is idiotic, I have no idea where you would EVER read that.

Source: Am accredited geological / geotechnical engineer, geologist, and contractor.

You put down three inches of material at a time. That's the most that a rental plate compactor can reasonably compact. (This isn't a matter of precision, anything around 3-4 inches is fine).

You then spray some water on it briefly to moisten it (not flood or soak the whole area and turn it into a puddle), and then you compact it. If you start getting puddling as you compact, it's a sign you've added too much water. Come back in ten minutes when the puddle has dissipated, and compact a bit more, then continue.

Each three-inch layer and compaction cycle is called a "lift". Since you're aiming for 7 inches of fill, you'll be needing to do two lifts, or two cycles of laying, wetting, and compacting.

[–]J4nG 0 points1 point  (1 child)

This is very helpful, thank you! Quite a few top sources on Google, surprisingly:

https://www.southwestboulder.com/blog/how-to-install-a-decomposed-granite-pathway https://dallasgardenbuzz.com/2019/01/30/step-by-step-how-to-build-decomposed-granite-flooring-and-paths/#:~:text=You%20must%20start%20with%20a,of%20the%20pad%20or%20walkway.

even WikiHow haha https://www.wikihow.com/Install-Decomposed-Granite

Didn't make much sense to me though.

Also sounds like based on your advice I should be able to do fewer lifts than I expected (originally was thinking if I have to buy, could get an electric compactor which is a bit underpowered but could do more layers). That'll be a big time saver, thanks!

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, I see the problem.

In your original post, you talked about using granite gravel, and making a gravel pathway.

In your follow-up post today, you said the decomposed granite was delivered.

Decomposed granite =/= granite gravel.

They are two different materials that behave differently. As the WikiHow article explains, the decomposed granite often comes with glues/stabilizers added to it, and even when it doesn't, the decomposed granite reacts with water. This is why they talk about flooding the walkways and then waiting 8 hours.

My instructions are for gravel. Just normal, everyday, run-of-the-mill gravel. If what you're using truly is decomposed gravel, then I'd actually recommend adhering to the schedule laid out by the guides.

[–]Grandmas_Ryebread 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I opened up our drain piping from our bathroom sink to free the line up from a pesky clog that a drain snake wasn't able to clear up on its own. Once the clog was removed, I reassembled and tightened the connection and it now leaks as you can see in the photos. I didn't discard any pieces, so I am not sure if the nut or pipe itself is cracked (it doesn't appear to be) or what else could be causing the leak. Any thoughts on a remedy?


[–]teklikethis 0 points1 point  (1 child)

In our rental, in both washrooms the fan is on the same line as the switch. Any way I can easily separate them so the fan doesn’t turn on every time we turn the light on?

[–]FieldBusiness1002 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Looking for something or a trick that tells me if things have been opened (door, lid, etc) ? There are some stickers but they tend to leave sticky residue

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Typically this is done by wedging something into the door or lid that will fall out when it's opened. It should be light so as not to make a loud noise when it falls, which would alert the person who's opening it, and it should be wedged in firm enough that it won't fall out on its own.

[–]Chaaooos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi there,

I currently have a wetroom shower where the floor tiles have came away and water has been seeping through, we noticed a small spot of water after ~1.5+ months of ignoring the loose tiles. We have since stopped using the shower, and haven't seen any issues.

I've removed the tiles to get a better look at what it's like underneath, and it seems like the tanking hasn't been installed correctly?


I've had a few plumbers/bathroom people in, and have received a few suggestions I'm just not sure what is the next best steps to take. Most haven't been concerned with the leak, others have said it's going to be a big repair job.

Currently, the options are -

  • Re-tile over the current tiles, we run the risk of having issues with this again. I've been advised a wetroom upstairs in a property isn't a good idea, and to stay away from mosaic tiles.
  • Remove the existing tanking, inside the exposed shower floor,and install a plastic/ceramic shower tray, we would be able to install the tray and the shower enclosure while keeping the existing wall tiles.
  • Remove the rest of the floor tiles including the rest in the bathroom to see the extent of the water damage, if any, and install a plastic/ceramic shower tray. Tile the rest of the floor.

Any advice, or help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[–]Uncouth_Goose 0 points1 point  (7 children)

I know this is a weird question, it's for a crafting project: Is it safe to put wall nails into my oven at a low heat? Do nails let off any fumes I should be worried about?

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (3 children)

You're fine. Zinc fumes only emerge at very high temp, and vinyl only begins to emit fumes at around 135 C. Keep your oven temp below 275 F and you're good

Below those temperatures, It's just some metal you're putting into your oven, just like every pot and baking dish you've put in before.

What are you trying to accomplish by doing this, btw?

[–]Uncouth_Goose 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Thank u! I'm using the nails to create holes in polymold while I'm melting down into a silicone baking mold.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Ahh I see, so your nails are going to be inside the silicone mold.

Well, so long as the polymold melts below 275F, you shouldn't have any problems.

[–]Uncouth_Goose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yay thank you, I'm very relieved!

[–]chopsuwepro commenter 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Check to see if they have any sort of coating. Galvanized nails are coated in zinc which is toxic, I don't know about other types. It probably depends what temperature you're getting them up to as well.

[–]Uncouth_Goose 0 points1 point  (1 child)

That's what I was worried about but I can't find info on at what temp zinc is toxic. Any resources you could recommend?

[–]Uncouth_Goose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also I read nails can be coated with vinyl, is that concerning too?

[–]waiting4omscs 0 points1 point  (3 children)

I'm trying to figure out how to secure a tall Ikea Pax dresser to a wall that has a baseboard. I'm not handy enough to remove that to keep it flush to the wall, so I'm trying to find a solution for the 1.5 inch gap where the wall anchors are intended to go.

I believe these aren't intended to really hold weight, just keep it from tipping. Are there long drywall anchors that would stick out that far for this? I don't think the holes line up to any studs.

[–]caddis789 1 point2 points  (2 children)

If it's 1.5 inches, you can get a piece of 2x2, or 2x4, and screw that to the wall, then attach the dresser to that.

[–]waiting4omscs 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Thanks. Please check me on this: What I should do is get a 2x4 and cut it the length of the dresser. Screw that into any studs that it goes over, using 2.25" screws? That's 1.5" through the 2x4 and 0.75" into the stud. Then use 0.75" screws from the Pax to the 2x4s?

[–]caddis789 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're forgetting about the drywall, so I'd use longer screws into the wall (3" should do it). Otherwise, yes that should work.

[–]imthenachoman 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Where can I find/buy thick (4-5mm) clear vinyl sheets?

I want a really super thick clear vinyl sheet on a table of ours. We want it to be 4-5mm.

I can't seem to find anyone that has any? Everything I see stops at 80 gauge / 80 mil / 2 mm.

[–]Guygan[M] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want a really super thick clear vinyl sheet on a table of ours.

I PROMISE you, you don't. Plexiglass is EXTREMELY soft, and scratches VERY easily. After a year, it will just be a scratch-ridden mess. You're far better off going with actual glass.

That said, just google "Acrylic supply <Your municipality>" and you'll find acrylic/plastic/Plexiglass dealers that can sell you what you need.

[–]warrior_scholar 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I'm looking to build some rock walls from the lava rock around my property.

The first one I plan to build is an 18' high wall for a raised garden plot. I have a lot of tile mortar left over from remodeling the bathroom: Can I use this as a substitute for cement, since the wall won't need to support much weight aside from a couple hundred pounds of soil?

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. Use the correct product for the application. Masonry products are non-interchangeable.

[–]anally_ExpressUrself 0 points1 point  (3 children)

I have a Woodford frost proof hose bib sticking out of my brick siding. It looks mounted properly (no obvious holes), but it feels loose, like it's not actually attached to the bricks. I don't like this, it moves around if my hose puts any pressure on it. How can I properly secure it?

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (2 children)

There should be screw holes for it that you can use to stabilize it by drilling into the brick (with a hammer drill). Otherwise, your only options are caulking, construction adhesive, or expanding foam to fill the gap around the tube and fix it in place.

If you can see the piping from inside, though, then you can add blocking and secure it to that.

[–]anally_ExpressUrself 0 points1 point  (1 child)

There are screw holes but I'm not sure how to use them. I drill holes that line up with them, then what? A wood screw won't bite into brick, will it?

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, you will need something like a Tapcon screw, or any exterior-rated screw with a compatible brick/concrete anchor

[–]samtheflamingo 0 points1 point  (1 child)

New to the sub. I'm a jack-of-all-trades artist. I have a bad habit of hoarding anything that "could be a craft" - from a scarf hanger (what if I weaved between the bars? Or made into a toy for my snake?) to a folding glass pane to a box shaped like something nobody has ever named before.

Is there a subreddit where I could, for example, post a picture of the item I'm struggling to DIY and crowdsource some ideas? If not, would that be something allowed here?

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's a LOT of "what can I do with this?" kind of idea-gathering posts that get made here, and I typically don't see them get any replies. You're welcome to try, though.

[–]tavada34891 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a vinyl picket fence. One of the slats fell off (looks like it was cemented glued on). What is a strong adhesive to reattach?

My plan is to unscrew the section of fence panel, clean the area, apply the adhesive, ensure measurements are equally spaced, then apply panel and clamp until cured.

[–]schmennings 0 points1 point  (4 children)

I have ADHD and am facing a decision my ADHD will not permit me to make. I need (want) a cordless framing nailer and I can't decide between the 21 degree nailers and 30degree, I also cant decide on Ryobi vs Dewalt.

I'll be using it for the following projects: Building an interior wall in our basement, building a closet in the basement, using some left over fence posts to build a trash can area, eventually framing/finishing our utility room to insulate the walls, and adding a bit of framing to the bottom of our deck to enclose it to keep critters out.

I found some 21 degree round headed nail strips that some contractors left from another project so I was thinking about going for the 21 degree nailer. My local HD has a couple 21 degree nailers (tool only) for $370 with a FREE battery, but also has a 30 degree Ryobi for $330.

[–]zooloo10 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Disclaimer. I have a personal grudge with Ryobi. I've spent about 800-1000 dollars on their tools and haven't been happy with a single one. There's always something wrong with them. Probably the worst is the sliding miter saw I got that had bent rails from the factory and after replacing it still has so much deflection you can't get a consistent straight. So personally I wouldn't buy anything from Ryobi. I haven't gotten a tool I've liked from them yet.

[–]schmennings 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I've had mostly really good experiences with Ryobi. My oscillating multi tool, reciprocating saw, drain auger, and jig saw have been great.

The only tool I am unhappy with is my hand planner.

[–]zooloo10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

maybe I've jsut made the mistake of trusting them with precision~ish tools. If you haven't had issues with their other stuff id just go for it then.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey there, I've done lots and lots of research into this stuff and have a cordless framing nailer myself, so I can help. What is your ultimate budget for this?

30-degree nails are more compact, and tend to be paper-collated, which is great. The nailers are also better at fitting into tight spaces and are better at toe-nailing, because of the higher angle of the magazine. The only downside is that the magazines are shorter, and so they carry fewer nails in total.

21-degree nails tend to be plastic-collated, which is really bloody annoying IMO, because every shot of the gun also fires out a little chunk of plastic. So you end up littering your work area and environment with bits of plastic, and they can also ricochet and hit you in the face and eyes. The only advantage is that the nails are more waterproof and durable on the jobsite than paper-collated ones, but that's not a big deal to me. That, and the guns tend to hold more nails per reload.