all 10 comments

[–]DiZZYDEREK 5 points6 points  (2 children)

As a roofer, if it was me, I'd pull off that first piece of fascia, have a custom piece bent that covers the gap, and then replace the piece you removed back over it with new screws. Would be a relatively simple fix, but like the guy above says, you should definitely call a company or talk to that builder.

[–]barreldegree[S] 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Yeah I will, so would you expect the roof sheets to come up flush to the metal fascia? Just trying to visualise which direction to cover the gap from

[–]DiZZYDEREK 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally have never used this particular type of metal roofing system, it's not at all common from where I'm from. But yes I definitely would. Otherwise ice will build up and force water backwards underneath and will eventually become a much bigger problem.

[–]UsualSheepherder4541 1 point2 points  (4 children)

There should be a eave detail and neoprene closures under the panels. Hight Temperature Ice and water shield around the perimeter and synthetic underlayment in the middle of the roof. Looks to me there is missing HT ice and water shield and possible missing eave drip and neoprene closures. Can’t tell from this photo. Also those panels look to be overhanging the gutter a bit much. With heavy rain the water might shoot past the gutters.

[–]barreldegree[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

So the neoprene closures are all around just not at the corners. The roof is simply a waterproof membrane under the metal sheets.

I’m struggling to imagine what fabric/thing you mentioned could be missing that would prevent this issue. The only way I could see to prevent it would be to have the metal fascia not cut to vertical (so it would overhang the gutter but that would look rather odd)

Edit: not too worried if water did shoot over, it would just run onto our gravel paths (so be annoying but wouldn’t cause any issues)

[–]UsualSheepherder4541 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Then for the most part your probably good. The installer can make a slight flashing to tuck under the gable and under the panel and over the synthetic paper you have showing. The flashing should prevent the water pooling and redirect the wind driven water back to the gutter.

[–]UsualSheepherder4541 0 points1 point  (1 child)


This link might help. This is the detail you are looking for.

[–]barreldegree[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, yeah that sounds like the most sensible solution. I’ve put a flat piece on plastic there currently as we should have heavy rain overnight and will check that does solve the issue, and the he should be able to make up a bit of flashing

[–]dykeag -1 points0 points  (1 child)

When in doubt, call an expert!

I would call a roofer, tell them you think you need a repair and ask them to come take a look and give you a quote. Ask them what they will do. And if the price is fair... I'd personally rather have someone who has liability insurance fix my roof rather than trying to do it myself. The reason being, a botched repair has the potential to cause waaaay more damage than the repair costs.

[–]barreldegree[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I could do that and may well eventually, but currently the builder who built it is still on site so I’ll chat to him next week (but I can’t figure what it should be like).

It’s an outbuilding and there are big eaves so realistically I don’t think it should cause make structural damage however much pools, but would rather not have the eaves rot out