all 11 comments

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 1 point2 points  (7 children)

You will need a random-orbit sander.

Sand the entire piece at 120 grit.

Clean the dust off

Lightly draw pencil onto the entire surface with some big zig-zags.

Sand the entire piece at 180 grit, until all the pencil marks are gone.

Keep going for another 5-10 minutes with more 180-grit disks.

Spray water on the entire surface and let the grain "pop" and become rough. Wait for it to dry.

Sand it all again at 180 grit.

You are now ready to stain. Use a water-based stain from General Finishes, Saman, or Old Masters. Follow the directions closely. Wipe off the excess.

Give it the listed dry time, in the listed drying conditions.

Now you are ready to topcoat. Use a water-based polyurethane from General Finishes, Old Masters, Saman, or Renner.

Wait at LEAST 3 days before moving or using the thing, but please try to give it 7 days.

[–]orgasmosisjones 0 points1 point  (6 children)

hello mr. knowledge, I have an oil-based stain and osmo top oil. I’m planning to use this acacia block around an undermounted sink. I picked these products based on the salesman at a wood store.

does the same still apply, or should I be buying different products? also, I’m seeing some people apply an oil coat before staining and sealing. is that really necessary with an oil stain?

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (5 children)

When you say "I plan to use this acacia block around an undermounted sink", what do you mean, exactly? Is the acacia block a cutting block? Is it the countertop the sink is mounted to?

[–]orgasmosisjones 0 points1 point  (4 children)

we won’t be doing any cutting on this. we’ll be using them as countertops and our island. the salesman said the top coat we’re using is really resistant to water for several years but I’m not sure if he’s speaking from experience or product knowledge.

i’ve also seen people oil after sanding, which wasn’t mentioned when we bought the counters and coatings. hoping to get the counters treated today or tomorrow so they’ll be ready for install in a week or two.

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Oh boy. Okay so, this type of finish is fairly new, and blurs the line between a penetrating oil finish (which could basically never be used in a kitchen for a sink and be expected to last), and a film finish (which would be perfectly fine). As such, it's neither here nor there.

The problem is the sink area. Undermounted sinks specifically expose the countertop to water basically 24/7, around the seam where they meet the counter. This is a fairly big problem.

I see two possible solutions:

  1. You use an actual film-forming polyurethane finish on the UNDERSIDE of the counter, where the sink is going to be attached, and along the inside rim of the hole in the counter. You do at least three coats. This gives you a water-impermeable coating where the water exposure is heaviest.

  2. You apply a product like this


To the underside and inner rim, then follow it up with your osmo oil. It's definitely more water-resistant than just using the topcoat by itself, but it's the same product family so they work together. Keep in mind that according to the notes for this product, using it will lead to a glossy finish in the areas it's applied.

[–]orgasmosisjones 0 points1 point  (2 children)

the sink is the only area I’m really concerned about so I appreciate your honesty on the subject. Our plan is to use three coats of sealant on every surface, including the bottom and the middle. I’ll add that second solution to my arsenal.

So, I should be okay to use two coats of oil stain, prescribed coats of wood protector, then three coats of the top oil?

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (1 child)

There typically is no need to do two coats of stain, if everything was done correctly, adding a second coat won't change anything. It's just colourant.

As for the topcoat, osmo doesn't build a film, it's a penetrating finish. You can see online people have checked whether there's a difference between one coat and two coats, and there is, but it's a rather small difference. Three coats would just be useless, IMO.

[–]orgasmosisjones 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you’re a legend. thanks for making this project a little easier and durable.

[–]m_smg 0 points1 point  (1 child)

It may take weeks for some polyurethanes to "fully cure" but in my experience it's never taken more than 12 hours for it to cure to the point it can be put into light use. Obviously, be sure to consult the instructions on the product you buy - they're all different (sometimes dramatically so.)

[–]--Ty--Pro Commenter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

7 days.

Pretty near every single polyurethane item I have put into use within three days has been scratched by either myself or my clients. Give it the full week.

[–]Popular-History-8021 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want richer colors from your wood treat with boiled linseed oil 3-4 coats.

This is my kitchen island with a butcher block style counter i made